Make them the same way as described in the tutorial but trim them so that they are a little taller (I added about 4 mm).
You can flatten the front part a little more, so that the front part of the shoe is a little longer.
I used flower paste (gum paste).
Roll out the paste very thin (less than 1 mm)
Let the rolled out paste dry for some time from both sides before you cut the strips. That way the strips won’t lose their shape/stretch.
Don’t make the strips too wide. If you make them too wide they will cover almost the whole legs – you should still see the pink legs when looking at the topper from the front.
Use a very small amount of glue so that it doesn’t ooze out from under the paste.
After shaping the skirt as described in the tutorial, make vertical indentations with the round (wide) end of the dresden tool. Soften them with your finger. Pinch the bottom edge all around, so that it is quite sharp and a little wavy (not completely straight).
Top and bottom strips can’t be too dry when you attach them, because their shape needs to be adjusted to the curves.
Let the bottom strip get very firm before you attach the arms.
Roll two 9 mm balls.
The wires/sticks need to stick out a little more than in the tutorial, because the sleeves are bigger. If the wires/sticks are too short the arms might fall off.
Attach the white strip after attaching the arm.
Shape them the same way as the hands (follow the same steps and use the same templates), but use 1 g (12 mm) balls.
Trim them so that the hands are below the bottom edge of the skirt.
I suggest printing out an image of True’s face the same size as the head template. It needs to be the same size because only then it will help you determine the proper sizes, shapes and proportions. You can also display the image the proper size on your phone (not in your computer – you need to be able to put it close to the head so that you can see whether the proportions and shapes are ok).
Use the same amount of paste as given in the tutorial.
Make the eyes the same way as described in the tutorial, but make the indentations (the ones that you make before making the eye sockets) shallower (True’s face is quite flat) and slightly higher (True’s eyes are positioned slightly higher than in the tutorial – use the image to determine the height).
Make the eye sockets larger than in the tutorial. They should be oval (almost round). To make them the correct size and to space them out properly keep on comparing the face with the image.
To determine the size and position of the nose and mouth look at the image. Note the distances between the eyes, nose and the mouth.
To make the mouth I used the fine end of the dresden tool (curved, shallow line). I then smoothed it slightly to make the indentation narrower (thinner line). When the paste gets firmer you can paint the smile with brown paint (f.ex. gel colour dissolved in a small amount of water). Use a very fine brush (the line needs to be very thin or else the smile won’t look good).
To make the mouth I used the fine end of the dresden tool (curved, shallow line). I then smooth
Use the image to determine the size of the irises, pupils, eyelashes and eyebrows. Note the distances between the eyes and the eyebrows.
Make the hair at the back the same way as described in the tutorial.
To make the fringe roll short, slightly tapering towards one end sausages and flatten them. To determine the size, compare with the image. Note the distance between the eyebrows and the fringe.
After attaching the fringe, texture it with the fine end of the dresden tool.
The ponytails – 2 x 2 g (18 mm) balls. To make a ponytail, roll a ball, form a short teardrop shape, make an indentation in the middle of the wider end with the round end of the dresden tool (you want to create something like a heart shape). Texture the ponytails. Attach them using wire and glue. xx